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品尝美食成为旅游的重要内容,美食体验盼升级

来源:人民网-人民日报 时间:2019-06-05 16:49:24

“吃、住、行、游、购、娱”,六大旅游消费元素中“吃”排在第一位。过去旅游餐饮多是为了吃饱,如今品尝美食成为旅游的重要内容,一些人甚至愿意为一顿美食而开启一段旅程。美食能增加什么样的旅行体验?游客的美食需求能否得到满足?让我们一起听听游客和专家怎么说。

美食“打卡”成习惯

当前游客更希望品尝使用当地独特食材、烹饪方式,具有当地文化底蕴、民俗风情的特色美食,并关注其历史文化内涵

“沙茶面、肠粉、麻糍、虾饼……现在想想都忍不住流口水,这些都是我在家乡吃不到的味道。”最近,安徽合肥市民王晨晨到厦门旅游,出发前他特意在旅游攻略上详细列出每个景点的必尝美食,“现在做旅游攻略,都是景点一条线、美食一条线,‘逛吃’才是享受。”

可是,回忆起几年前与家人参团去某地旅游的情景,王晨晨至今仍觉得“苦不堪言”:“10人一桌八菜一汤,水煮白菜、水炒肉片、水蒸土豆条几乎没什么味道,辣椒粉拌豆腐又特别辣,鸭肉皮色泛白感觉是速冻食品,不少游客只好自己买榨菜配米饭吃。”

随着生活水平的提高,游客不再满足于吃团体餐、便餐,而是希望通过吃追求舌尖体验、探寻背后故事、感受地域文化。刚刚过去的“五一”小长假,在北京,东来顺、全聚德等老字号餐馆里人声鼎沸;在苏州,餐饮店门口等待购买“袜底酥”的游客排成长龙……今年前4月,全国餐饮收入13925亿元,同比增长9.3%,增速高于社会消费品零售总额。餐饮消费火,旅游餐饮消费更火。

据美团点评必吃榜数据,在大众点评平台上,出行找“吃”是高频应用,到当地美食店“打卡”“签到”已是很多游客的习惯。今年“五一”期间,国内游“打卡”最多的菜系是清淡的江浙菜,其次是特色火锅、小吃、小龙虾等风味美食。

我国餐饮文化历史悠久,形成了鲁、川、粤、苏(淮扬)、闽、浙、湘、徽“八大菜系”。“当前游客更希望品尝使用当地独特食材、烹饪方式,具有当地文化底蕴、民俗风情的特色美食,并关注其历史文化内涵。美食成为消费者体验不同文化和风俗的一个载体和要素。”中国饭店协会会长韩明表示。

旅游社交分享网站马蜂窝的分析报告显示,在该平台发布的个人游记里,66.08%的游记提到了“吃”,14.5%的用户甚至会“为了吃而开启一趟旅行”。游客在享受口腹快感的同时,还能了解一段历史文化故事,让旅途更加多姿多彩。

“景区之前都来过,这次带家人到成都,主要是休闲放松和品尝美食,担担面、麻辣兔头、成都火锅……每餐都要吃地道的川味。”5月27日,在四川成都的一家餐饮店里,来自西安的游客陈亮说。

美食特色待开发

旅游美食消费潜力很大,但旅游餐饮服务还有很大的开发空间

“一条鱼剖开两半,一半汆水,一半过油,都要在恰当的时机将鱼下锅和出锅……”纪录片《舌尖上的中国》这段关于西湖醋鱼的介绍给沈阳居民吴鑫留下深刻印象,“到杭州旅游,一定要尝尝正宗的西湖醋鱼。”

然而,前不久到杭州旅游的吴鑫却傻眼了:几乎每家餐厅都有西湖醋鱼,到底哪家正宗呢?吴鑫在杭州住了几天,吃了三家馆子的西湖醋鱼,“有一家特别难吃,糖和醋都盖不住鱼腥味,剩下两家的口味也没达到之前的期待。”

当前,地方特色美食的开发还不够。“旅游美食消费潜力很大,但旅游餐饮服务还有很大开发空间。比如,在某地,满街都是某某家宴,但却缺乏对该项目的系统开发,不少产品说不出有什么特色。“当下,亟须进行消费引导和旅游设计,通过分析旅游消费群体,有针对性地开发旅游餐饮服务项目。”中国烹饪协会副会长冯恩援说。

“国内旅游城市一些雷同的小吃街、餐饮城需要地方政府、景区进行规划和引导。目前商务部正在全国推动美食街区的建设,将带动一批有特色、高品质、产品规划组合合理、食品安全达标的特色美食街区建设。”韩明说。

红油重彩的火锅、毛焦火辣的串串、皮薄馅嫩的龙抄手、软糯爽滑的红糖糍粑……成都美食“麻辣鲜香”的特色,吸引了全国的年轻游客。成都成功打造了宽窄巷子、锦里、西村等美食汇聚的特色街区,成为游客“打卡”之地。成都作为川菜发源地和发展中心,已逐步成为重要的美食中心城市之一,美食对旅游消费的带动作用明显。

在市场增加优质美食供给的同时,游客还有筛选美食的需求。旅途中如何找到好吃的餐厅困扰很多游客。一些人习惯每到一个陌生地方点开美食点评类应用搜索,然而也有一些游客担心商家“刷单”制造好评。美食博主、苏州市民邹莹建议,“不要简单地按评分排序选择餐厅,而要看餐厅的点评内容、数量和构成。一般来说,点评人数越多,参考价值越高。评价数量少,时间又比较集中的多数不可信。还可以问问当地朋友或者和酒店前台、出租车司机聊聊,都有助于找到正宗美食。”

淮扬菜非物质文化遗产传承人周晓燕认为,“一些国外的美食指南没有针对中餐来进行评审细则的调整,对喜爱中餐的游客参考意义不大。”去年开始,美团点评每年都要发布黑珍珠餐厅指南,为中国美食消费者提供指南。“我们希望能做出一个真正令大家满意的美食榜。”美团点评首席执行官王兴说。

美食体验盼升级

培育品牌企业,增加特色供给,打造完整产业链,提升消费体验

“三碗粥、两个鸡蛋、两根油条,结账时居然收了我们90多元钱。”河南平顶山市民吴华容带着儿子到某沿海城市旅游,“早上赶海回来,我们在离景区不远的一家餐馆吃了早点,没想到价钱高得离谱,味道却很一般。”

吴华容一家在回宾馆的路上经过一家类似餐厅,看了一下门口的菜单,同样的早点只要30元左右。“食物一样,就餐环境也差不多,只是一家店离景点近,一家远些,价格竟差这么大。”

越来越多的游客愿意在旅途中为餐饮体验付费,但旅途中一些美食体验仍有待提高。近年来,一些景区爆出“天价泡面”“天价炒饭”的新闻,一碗泡面能卖到五六十元,一碗炒饭可以卖到100元。“一些景区餐饮价格高,普通游客往往不敢在景区消费。如果景区内外物价差不多,就能轻装前行、走哪吃哪了。”吴华容说。

冯恩援说:“一些季节性旅游城市或景区,旺季游客非常多,不愁生意,淡季又关门歇业,不做生意。因此餐馆对品牌塑造往往不太在意,在定价方面又有一定自主权,需要旅游管理部门加强监管。当地也应从发展长线旅游出发,鼓励商家重视和树立品牌。”

前不久,黑龙江发布《黑龙江省旅游业明码标价规定(试行)》,除要求明码标价外,餐饮经营者还将实行“餐前消费确认”。在顾客点餐后,将菜品和服务价格标注在二联点菜单上,现场交消费者签字确认后才可下单上菜。

物有所值是基本,美食体验还可以进一步升级,让消费者感到物超所值。我国不缺乏饮食文化,让游客在享受美食的同时,了解背后的文化,参与制作的过程,获得更为丰富的饮食文化体验,这类旅游服务还比较少。

“不仅吃到了我小时候熟悉的味道,还带着孩子跟村民一起制作江西特色小吃艾米果,非常有趣。”江西鹰潭市民孙英芬一家周末到贵溪市罗河镇乡村游,孩子跟着村民一起举着木槌敲打艾果面团,随后学习如何包入花生芝麻馅,最后制成艾米果,色泽油绿、艾香扑鼻。“全家参与,孩子们很高兴,也懂得了食物来之不易。”

韩明认为:“进一步挖掘旅游餐饮消费潜力,一方面需要地方政府的规划和宣传,另一方面需要当地品牌企业培育和带动,打造完整的产业链,提升消费体验。部分游客除了吃还希望有其他收获,商家要讲好美食故事,向游客介绍菜肴的历史文化、特色食材、烹饪方式及技法口感的独特性、特有的品尝方式等,最大程度提升游客的获得感。”

■延伸阅读

你尝过这些地方美味吗

长沙臭豆腐:色墨黑,外焦里嫩,鲜而香辣,焦脆而不糊、细嫩而不腻,初闻臭气扑鼻、细嗅浓香诱人。

上海生煎包:表皮松软,底板香脆,馅儿中汤汁饱满、味鲜浓郁,外皮松软可口。

重庆酸辣粉:粉丝筋道弹牙、口味麻辣酸爽、浓香开胃、油而不腻。

西安羊肉泡馍:烹制精细,料重味醇,肉烂汤浓,肥而不腻,营养丰富。

广州虾饺:晶莹剔透的外皮,能清晰地看到里面的虾仁。馅料有虾,有肉,有笋,味道鲜美爽滑,十分可口。

(本报记者 齐志明整理)

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